Around Cape Scott to Quatsino Sound
JULY 3, 2014 | We left Port McNeill after the gale blew itself out and moved into position to round Cape Scott by spending the night at Bull Harbor — the last anchorage on the north side. We were delayed at the entrance by a humpback whale, and as soon as it left a squad of Dall’s porpoises came to play in our bow wave. Hiked over to Roller Bay on the ocean side for a taste of the big waves. The noise of the round rocks moving with each wave was deafening.
Up at 4 am to make our move in the calmest part of the day, sneaking around the edge of Nahwitti Bar, then out into the swells beginning at Cape Sutil. We picked a good day and rounding Cape Scott at slack was quite manageable. Our first taste of the Pacific — Mischief rode the waves well, and no one got seasick.
Headed into Sea Otter Cove for a truly wild experience. Yes, there are Sea otters, and we watched a bear defend the seal carcass it was eating against a pack of hungry wolves. Of course we did the primitive trail through the mucky swamp to get out to the most spectacular beach on the ocean side — Lowrie Bay. No footsteps but ours in the acres of sand and gorgeous turquoise green waves you could surf on.
One more day’s travel in the ocean got us into Quatsino Sound, the first major inlet, with lots of protected waters to explore. Good thing, since we’ll be stuck inside it for a couple more days while the next gale blows through. It’s very pretty in here with only the local fish boats and a couple of sailboats around. Right now we’re alone in pristine Julian Cove, waiting for the bears to come out on the tidelands. But amazingly, we have cell coverage!