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Back around Cape Caution

24 July 2018 | MB
We are back in Fury Cove after more than a month. It’s still beautiful and still popular. This time the tides cooperated by falling all afternoon so we were able to walk to one of the outer beaches. It also provided access to an outer island with some surf — the outer islands are exposed to the ocean to the southwest. It was a strange day for weather with fog in the morning, sun in the afternoon, in time for our walk, and fog returning late in the day. Fortunately the fog lifted to make for a low cloud just when we were traveling. I’m baking bread today and have discovered the engine room makes a great place for rising bread. It rises nice and high after an hour in the 95 degree engine room. Should be tasty.

25 July 2018 | MB
We’re back in Smith Sound, taking advantage of the Northwest winds and stable weather to anchor in Dsulish Bay. There is a beautiful beach here of gold-colored sand. So we spent the afternoon beach combing and climbing over many of the huge logs at the head of the beach. The bay is completely exposed to storms from the south, the direction of most bad weather. We are anchored behind a little island which provides surprising shelter from the south. The fog that has been persistent along the ocean didn’t quite reach this far inland so we enjoyed a sunny day. A most pleasant change.

Golden sand beach in Dsulish Bay

Golden sand beach in Dsulish Bay

26 July 2018 | MB
For the second time this trip we rounded Cape Caution, again without difficulty — no wind and a long period swell of about 4 to 5 feet. Thank goodness for chart plotters and radar though because we saw no sign of land due to the fog. We came close enough to a couple of boats to even see them, but we knew they were coming a long time before that. Visibility was about half a mile. We stopped for the night at a small cove in the Walker Group, a cluster of small islands in the middle of Queen Charlotte Strait. It was calm when we came on but by 5:00 it was blowing hard and two other boats had joined us in this middle-of-nowhere kind of place. I think our days of solo anchorages are at an end.

Rounding Cape Caution in the fog and swells

Rounding Cape Caution in the fog and swells

27 July 2018 | MB
We woke to more fog and continued on our journey south. With not a breath of air the gray of the sky matched the gray of the water. Only the slightest of swells distinguished up from down. And so it went for three hours with half-mile visibility but nothing to see except an occasional boat, their presence telegraphed by their radar blip or their AIS signature. Thank goodness for the autopilot. We docked at the public dock in Port McNeill and even though it was only noon we got their last slip. So then it was chores: laundry, groceries, garbage, the big three, followed by boat washing, water and various other delayed items. With all that we still had time for a walk so it wasn’t all work. The exciting event of the day was the 209-foot-long yacht “Satori” that came in and docked, backing in to a long finger slip. And it was blowing 10-15 at the time. They weren’t giving tours.

A 209-foot yacht dwarfs all the other boats in the marina at port McNeill

A 209-foot yacht dwarfs all the other boats in the marina at port McNeill

28 July 2018 | MB
We made the big 3-mile trip across the passage to Sointula. This is the main town, actually the only town, on Malcom Island. It was originally settled around 1900 by a group of Finnish settlers interested in creating a commune. That didn’t last but the Finnish culture remains. The people here are very friendly. We went for a nice hike through interesting terrain to a lake and then went into town to the bakery. Town proper is about a mile from the marina and is the site of the landing for the BC Ferry from Port McNeill. Last time we were here we left our boat in Port McNeill during a gale and walked onto the ferry. The marina is interesting — you just come in and take any spot that is available, first come, first served. It’s filled with a mixture of pleasure boats and commercial fishing boats. Today was pretty nice — it was sunny all day and got up to 70. Since we read it’s going to continue HOT for a bit longer down south we plan to stay up here for a few more days.

Sointula fences all have lots of character

Sointula fences all have lots of character

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