Broughtons to Desolation Sound
29 July 2018 | MB
We left the dock at Sointula in a leisurely fashion and headed into the Broughtons. There was a steady stream of boats leaving and entering Port McNeill. We went to a new, for us, bay called Bootleg Cove in the Douglas guide though unnamed on the chart. The anchorage is landlocked and only the lightest of breezes have blown all day. We are all alone except for three crab buoys taking up valuable anchoring space. We are on short scope but it’s so calm that its not a problem. The pesky deer flies are still with us but no mosquitoes. A lovely sunny day.
30 July 2018 | MB
We decided to try Viner Sound. It has a large drying area and a lagoon that can be explored by kayak at high tide. It has been calm all day and quite warm. This place is blessed with four mooring buoys, the only ones we have ever seen up here. We took one in a little side cove that was totally calm. This proved to be somewhat of a disadvantage as the day progressed and the temperature climbed towards 80. The only other boat was anchored in the main part of the sound and was hidden from our view, so effectively we were all alone. We kayaked for a couple of hours, took showers and moved from one spot of shade to another as the boat turned around. Relaxing evening.
31 July 2018 | MB
Windy today. Luckily our route northeast up Tribune Channel kept the wind behind us. As the channel heads further into the mainland the terrain becomes higher and steeper. Several sounds with glaciated peaks at their heads feed into the channel. In addition to outstanding views the water becomes more and more opaque, and a beautiful jade green in color. Along the way we saw several pods of pacific white-sided dolphins, one of which visited us with four individuals playing in our bow wave at the same time for a little bit. Karen tried to get a picture, I just watched. We also encountered a group of five Ranger Tugs traveling together, apparently headed for Kwatsi Bay, which has a small marina.
The wind was blowing at least 15 as we crossed Knight Inlet to Tsakonu Cove but the cove is perfect for these conditions — sheltered from northwest winds but completely open to the southeast and great views. And more jade green water. The only thing to disturb our solitude was a sonic boom from a high flying jet.
1 August 2018 | MB
Today we positioned ourselves to head out into Johnstone Strait tomorrow by anchoring in Boughey Bay. We need to be fairly close because the wind in Johnstone is typically fairly low in the morning but by noon or 1:00 it is starting to build and by 4:00 it will be 25 knots out there. So we want to get an early start and be out of the Strait by 1:00. It won’t help that we will have the current against us the whole time. After the morning fog burned off it was sunny but breezy all day today so we spent our time doing chores and generally relaxing. Another easy day.
2 August 2018 | MB
Today was a red letter day. We passed two sailboats actually sailing, which doubled our number of sail sightings this trip. Johnstone Strait was easy enough, with the wind behind us and small waves. We liked the 10 knots but the sailboats probably didn’t — they were making about 4. We ended up in Forward Harbour, which is the primary staging place for going either north or south in Johnstone Strait. We wound up with 10 other boats in our anchorage — somewhat of a shock after 4 days of being all by ourselves. It’s a sure sign we are headed back to civilization.
3 August 3018 | MB
We transited two rapids today and will do three tomorrow. What with neap tides and careful timing to pass through near slack there are no problems or issues. Tomorrow we will be back in Desolation Sound, an area we know well. My feelings are distinctly bittersweet as we return to our home waters. We have really made Mischief our home and part of me doesn’t want to leave it. Today we anchored in Bickley Bay and went for a hike on some not-in-use logging roads back into the surrounding hills. Unfortunately the route encompassed some fairly recent clear cuts but they were in patches and not too big. It was nice to stretch our legs a bit.
4 August 2018 | MB
We are in Von Donop Inlet for a couple of days. Luckily the anchoring area is really large because there are almost 50 other boats sharing it with us. Gone are the days of our private coves. Still, it’s a lovely place with warm, gentle breezes and lots of exploring. We’ve already done one hike, a 4-mile circle to Squirrel Cove, which is just as busy though the boats seem to be bigger there. We’ll go for another hike tomorrow. The water here is pretty warm, 69 degrees, but it is filled with moon jellyfish, so Karen probably won’t go for a swim, even though they are harmless to humans. I think it’s just the thought that bothers her.
5 August 2018 | MB
Today we went for a six-mile hike up to the lagoon and back. The first mile was a normal trail through the woods but the next two miles got progressively more difficult with logs, blow downs and windfalls more frequent until the last half mile, where you could see the next blowdown from the one currently being negotiated. So our six miles seemed much longer. I don’t think there is any trail maintenance being done here so I expect conditions will continue to get worse. It’s been hot, mid 80s, but Mischief has sun covers for all the windows so it doesn’t get too bad inside. And when the breeze blows the flybridge is a nice place to hang out. It is definitely summer.