Burke Channel to Rescue Bay
27 June 2018 | MB
We managed to break away from the magnetism of the dock and headed out to new places. But it was a leisurely start. We explored one potential anchorage but went on to another, Fougner Bay, a compact bay with a narrow, rocky entrance leading to a perfectly protected little nook with room for one two boats. Some folks from LaConner came in after us and we spent some time chatting with them. They even allowed us to try out their kayaks, pretty wood numbers he had built in his garage from kits. Sweet. I may have found a winter project.
27 June 2018 | MB
Today marked a milestone for our trip — 1000 nautical miles. And to celebrate we ended the day by going to Eucott hot springs. It’s in a spectacular bay surrounded by granite cliffs and snow-topped mountains, with room for many boats and perfect protection from all winds. The hot springs aren’t exactly rustic since the soaking pool is made of concrete and the hot water comes in a pipe, but the flow of the 113 degree water is regulated by pushing a baseball bat up the pipe. It was a long day traveling up Burke Inlet to get here, during which we saw only two other boats, each at the exact time we were entering a tiny bay to explore on the way here. Talk about the power of coincidence. Now if the sun were to come out all would be perfect.
29 June 2018 | MB
Last night, just at sunset, if there had been any sun, we saw a mother grizzly and her cub come down to the beach, on the other side of the bay from the hot springs I should add. They wandered down the beach, munching on grass and were gone. It rained hard all night and in the morning we decided to stay and celebrate our 39 year anniversary here. Everyone else cleared out so we had the bay and the hot springs to ourselves, at least until other boats came in the afternoon. Rain changed to showers and the low clouds started to lift so we could see the 2000 foot high black granite cliff next to us and the large waterfall we had been listening to but couldn’t see. The 4700 foot snow capped peak on the other side is starting to make an appearance. This is truly a magical place to have a special day.
30 June 2018 | MB
Today we went in pursuit of the elusive giant crab. And we heard they can be found at Ocean Falls, the site of a long gone paper pulp mill. When the mill was created in the 1920s they dammed a natural falls to creates large hydro power station to drive the mill. The mill is gone and the town is deserted but the generating plant now supplies power to Shearwater and Bella Bella, and the very few local residents — about 26, I’m told. Nearly Normal Norman, a local resident, has spent the last 25 years or so picking up all the stuff left behind when the mill closed, and has a small museum. His junk spans the time from the 20s to the 70s. Any collector would love the place. Apparently the waters of Ocean Falls are closed to all commercial fishing so the crabs can grow BIG! I’ve got my pot down and my fingers crossed.
1 July 2018 | MB
Still in Ocean Falls. My first attempt netted one small female crab, so we are going to try again. It has rained hard all day with a short break in the afternoon. This must be what they mean by showers up here. So we are relaxing in the boat, catching up on reading, and watching other boats come and go. And of course there’s the nap. Lazy day. Update. Stop the presses. The sun came out for 10 minutes. We saw the mountains and a rainbow. Still no crab, though.
2 July 2018 | MB
Great cruise today. No wind, water like glass and we even saw the sun for a bit. We went to Roscoe Inlet, one of the must-see places on this coast. It’s a gorgeous twisting inlet 1/2 mile wide by 21 miles long. We are anchored at the head in 70’ of water next to four steams noisily dumping water into the salt chuck, and off our stern a view of stunning granite domes all around. Best of all it’s totally calm. What a place. We will have to come back when it’s sunny. The guidebook says there’s great swimming in a layer of 75 degree fresh water on top of salt. If Only it were summer.
3 July 3018 | MB
We awoke to fingers of fog clutching the peaks and valleys surrounding us followed by brilliant sun and blue skies. And all the time the mirror surface of the water reflecting it all with perfect clarity. The return trip across the glassy water with sunlit granite all around us was as magical as the trip in. Karen thinks Roscoe Inlet ranks numero uno of all the places we’ve been in our boats. I can’t argue with that.
4 July 2018 | MB
Warning! There is absolutely nothing political in this post. Weather forecasts are getting to be amazing. Four days ago the forecast was for a sunny day with a high of 81. And so it is. Since the wind dropped completely it’s downright hot. It’s a shock to our systems as we haven’t had a day over 70 since May. And the forecast for tomorrow is weather back to normal with a week of rain, highs in the 60s. It was nice traveling in the sun. The breeze off the ocean was cool and the water was calm. We ended up in a large cove with seven other boats, all but one of which we have shared an anchorage or dock with in the past couple of weeks. We aren’t consciously traveling together but our paths cross and occasionally converge. Especially at the “special” destinations along this section of the coast. We, and they, seem to be hitting them all.