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Queens Sound

10 July 2018 | MB
We headed south about 12 miles to Campbell Inlet, a skinny thing about 3 miles long with two narrow spots, one of which has substantial current and uncharted rocks so it is best run at slack water on a high tide. Luckily that happened to be at noon today — perfect timing for a lazy breakfast of waffles and fresh strawberries. Yum. At the head of the inlet is s large, completely landlocked bay with good depths for anchoring and no other boats. There is a lagoon with tidal rapids flowing into the bay through a narrow, shallow channel that we explored by kayak, until we were stopped by rapids. The rocky bottom of the rapids was covered with at least three different species of starfish. This part of British Columbia at least seemed to have recovered from the starfish wasting disease that wiped out the population a few years ago all up and down the Pacific Northwest Coast. The next couple of weeks will be filled with short days and lots of kayaking, if the weather cooperates at all.

11 July 2018 | MB
We left our private inlet a bit before high tide with no problems and headed south to our next anchorage, all of 5 miles away. It’s called Maze Cove, because it’s just an open space large enough to anchor in among a maze of small islands, islets, reefs and rocks. It is a pretty place and interesting to explore as the tide goes down and more rocks and reefs are exposed. It is actually quite windy today so we didn’t go out in the kayak and spent our day doing chores and enjoying the sun, especially the latter since we haven’t seen much of ol’ sol for a while. We think the stars will be out tonight but seeing them is another matter. Sunset is 9:51 and twilight lasts another hour or so, well past our bedtime. But there’s always the middle of the night bathroom break.

12 July 2018 | MB
A beautiful sunny day but with high winds forecast. That seems to be the pattern here: if it’s sunny there will be 25 knots. Luckily the pattern seems to be the day starts calm and grows til 5:00 or so, then goes calm overnight. We decided to carry on for another 9 miles to our next destination. We couldn’t find an obvious bay that was out of the wind, so we anchored at the mouth of a tiny nook and then used a stern line around a tree to pull us deep into the nook and out of most of the wind. In the late afternoon when the wind calmed down a bit we went for a little row. Karen saw lots of interesting sea life. After dinner a lone sea otter cruised by in front of the boat. It’s a special treat. It probably also means there aren’t any crabs around here. Otters love crab.

Stern- tied in a nook in a place called Bombproof Anchorage

Stern- tied in a nook in A place called Bombproof Anchorage

13 July 2018 | MB
There weren’t any crab. It continues beautiful but windy so we decided to stay where we were—moored in this tiny nook out of most of the wind. We read, did some laundry, and made a thoroughly lazy day of it. And very nice it’s been, too. Even though the sky is a dark blue and the sun is intense the temperature maxed out at 66. But Karen managed to find a place out of the wind to take some clothes off—and promptly got a sunburn. That sun is sneaky in days like this.

14 July 2018 | MB
Today marks two months on the boat. It really feels like home. We went all of six miles today to another cove inside an inlet with a narrow entrance that we went through near low tide slack water. The sunny weather continues, so we went kayaking. On our first foray we toured our little bay, called Kinsman Cove, which is so isolated it’s not even listed in our Douglass guidebook. We went ashore on a rocky point and Karen went for a little dunking getting back into the kayak and managed to get her freshly washed clothes saturated with salt water. All in water about one foot deep. Later, at high tide, we kayaked into a lagoon right behind our boat. On the chart it is listed as a bog, but it was certainly a lagoon on a fourteen-foot tide. The entrance channel, which was a rapids when we checked it out at low water, had a wealth of tidal creatures — starfish, anemones, sea cucumbers and red turbans. We really wished for an underwater camera right then. I knew there were fewer boats up here but I’m struck by how remote this area is. We’ve gone five days on a row being anchored alone and in that time we’ve seen a couple of dinghies and one cruising boat. And all within 20 miles of Shearwater, and “civilization.” It’s truly awesome that such remote places still exist, and more so that we are here.

Exiting the lagoon at Kinsman cove during high water

Exiting the lagoon at Kinsman cove during high water

A mother merganser and her 10 youngsters floated through the same passage as it became a rapids again a couple of hours later.

A mother merganser and her 20 youngsters floated through the same passage as it became a rapids again a couple of hours later.

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